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Walter Isaacson: In the early 20th century, rapid advances in onoy and technology were having a positive effect on American society. From cars and airplanes, to frozen food and penicillin, consumers saw how technology gave them more freedom and a better quality of life. Rubinstein recognized this growing faith in new technology and used polamd to her advantage. It was no accident that Rubinstein called herself a beauty scientist.
In advertising s she was sometimes depicted wearing a white lab coat, conveying a mastery of her own cosmetics creations. Arden soon caught on to and so when either woman came out with a new line of eyebrow pencils, mascara, applicators or lipsticks in retractable tubes, the other was sure to answer with the lnly of her own line of new products as well. Lindy Woodhead: They desperately had to support themselves and their extended families.
They were both the daughters of failed fathers. They became the provider of everything.
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Walter Isaacson: Over the course of a 50 year business rivalry, Rubinstein and Arden built enormously successful cosmetic empires. Lindy Woodhead: They were incredibly ambitious. They were totally professional in the sense of their dedication and these two women were truly, truly pioneers and they started something which is now a global force.
The s were a turning point in the history of cosmetics. It was a decade when a growing culture of liberation met the march of technological progress. Walter Isaacson: ly, lip color was expensive. It was tedious to put on. It had to be applied at home. Now it was portable. For as little as five cents, a woman could conceal a tube in her pocket or handbag and stride confidently into the modern age. Gabriela Hernandez: When you had women kind of go more into a workforce and be more independent, especially in the s when women got the right to vote, the wearing of the lipstick became a of an independent woman.
Walter Isaacson: This is Gabriela Hernandez. She could be self sufficient and have a job and take care of herself, which was a very novel concept. Walter Isaacson: Even the word makeup did not exist until Factor was a pioneer of foundation, inventing various recipes for actresses, whom he would make up to look stunning on black and white film.
The allure of Hollywood actresses on film played a major role in the demand chzts cosmetics among women across America. Indeed, the entire modern history of America runs parallel to the shifting concept and expressions of beauty in popular culture. The fifties, for example, because it was after the war and obviously the idea was to marry and have kids and have families so there was a sdx idea of women as ultra feminine so the sex appeal had to be really up there so you had overdrawn lips derp very defined brows.
— beauty: more than skin deep
Walter Isaacson: But up until this point, African American women found themselves largely ignored by the beauty industry. That is until one ificant pioneer broke the color barrier. Her name was Eunice W. And inthey launched the Ebony Fashion Fair to raise money for charity. Linda Johnson-Rice: My mother really wanted to showcase the best of fashion across the world for an African American audience. Linda Johnson-Rice: And what she wanted to show was that you could be inspired by these looks and inspired to express yourself and that you deserved to look and to be the very best.
And as groundbreaking as it was to see Black women on the runway in couture, the real innovation was happening backstage in the makeup room.
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And it really came because my mother started seeing the models that we had hired mixing and matching different cosmetic products backstage, trying to find the right hue that would match their complexion. Beauty brands figured that all women, regardless of color, would wear the same makeup. Eunice W. Johnson was the first to realize how wrong they were. After failing to convince the big brands to adapt to a changing marketplace, Eunice assembled a team of chemists and began to make her own makeup.
And inshe launched Fashion Fair Cosmetics. Fashion Fair was the first makeup company for African American women and it remains the largest Black owned beauty brand in America. Linda Johnson-Rice: Every time you see a Black model on the runways, every time you see a Black model in an ad, a Black brand in the beauty space and in the cosmetic space, you have to thank Eunice Johnson.
Walter Isaacson: Over the next 30 years, the world of cosmetics continued to appeal to various trends, from disco culture to punk rock everything in between. But something happened in the early s that transformed the makeup world, a powerful but simple piece of technology was introduced that disrupted the beauty industry more than any other innovation in the last century. That technology was a little online video sharing platform called YouTube.
On July 22nd,a young woman in England helped create a new multi-billion dollar arm of the cosmetics industry. Lauren Luke was a regular 20 something who had fallen in love with makeup as a young girl while watching her grandmother perform her beauty rituals. She enrolled in beauty college and discovered she had a real talent for cosmetics. Then one day she decided to make a video of herself applying eyeshadow and she ed it to YouTube.
Lauren Luke: It was just me in my bedroom. The video was very grainy.
Walter Isaacson: The original video eventually received almost aviews so Luke began to post videos trying out new looks and practicing, what she had dwep in college. Her audience grew by leaps and bounds in just a short time. Viewers flock to her YouTube channel because she was open and honest about beauty products, techniques and about herself.
It was the kind of intimate connection that xhats cosmetics companies could only dream of achieving. The YouTube beauty revolution had begun. Lauren Luke: I was on the front cover of New York Times magazine and it was the everyday woman and it was amazing. It was that point when I realized what I had done and that was create a bit of a stir and allow us in and when I say us, I mean the everyday girl, not just your models and not just airbrushed, it was about allowing realness in.
It was about uncovering it all and letting all us shine through and that was such an dep time piland the beauty industry. Chaats Isaacson: Although she was excited by her new fame, Luke began to experience some tension between promoting the products of a global beauty brand while still remaining her genuine self chas being real with her fans. The toll eventually became too much for Luke to bear and after her contract finished, she stopped posting videos for a few years but her fans never forgot about her.
She had touched countless people with her grainy, do it yourself videos about eyeshadow and the importance of staying true to yourself. Lauren Luke: I do believe I had a positive impact. Walter Isaacson: Today, beauty YouTubers are some of the most followed creators on the site with the most popular having more than 20 million subscribers each.
Even Lauren Luke has begun posting videos again and what she continues to share, her makeup tutorials, beauty tips and the wisdom of her life. Walter Isaacson: The YouTube era has fundamentally changed the relationship between beauty brands and consumers. It gave consumers more power to demand ability, quality, as well as personalized service.
And in one sector of the industry, that demand for personalized care is leading some innovators to look inward for new ideas, all the way into our DNA.